text © Jesús Montero
The Spaniards saw its potential when, in XVI century Mexico, they made first contact with Maguey wine, which they described as a fortified wine, stronger than beer.
They marvelled at the vast expanses of land that the Mexicans devoted to the production of this strong wine.
Legend has it that a lightning storm struck a field of maguey plants in ancient times in Mexico. A bolt of lightning burnt one of the plants to its core and its ‘toffeed’ heart - as if sacrificed by the lightning gods - exposed the Mexicans to what was to become one their favourite drinks, maguey wine.
The introduction of distilling techniques from Europe – unknown to the Mexicans at the time - would eventually turn Maguey wine into what we today know as Tequila.
Flash forward to Soho, London. February the 23rd 2011.
I was privileged enough to take part in a Tequila tasting evening hosted by Mexican restaurant @wahaca Soho. They were looking for an ‘exclusive’ panel of 5 tequila experts and asked applicants to explain in no more than 100 words the reason why they felt qualified to help them select their next top tequilas; tequilas that would then feature on their new bar list.
I decided to apply and, just like that lucky maguey plant was struck by lightning, I was struck by a coup of inspiration, with a hint of luck, and secured myself a place on the panel. Yes, I must have mentioned that being a Spaniard (I’m also a very proud Brit), it was perhaps only fair that a Spaniard was to be part of the panel, for without the distilling techniques brought to Mexico by the Europeans, we wouldn’t have had any Tequila to judge.
I first visited Tequila town whilst making a documentary for National Geographic in Mexico and what a beautiful town it is. In a way, this beautiful town reminded me of the Spanish town of Jerez, bodegas galore, at each corner you turn.
Tonight’s tequila experience, which took place in the basement Tequila Bar of Wahaca – Soho was a very joyous event.
Thanks indeed to Thomasina Miers, Rosie, Oli, Mark, Nat and specially Henry, our tequila expert, who started the evening with a roller coaster of a descriptive intro into the behind the scenes of tequila production. Very useful indeed.
During the course of the evening we tried ten tequilas and like in any other tasting event, there were winners, crowd pleasers but also quite a few disappointments.
For me, there was a clear winner in the category of the tequila blancos. There is something unique, perfumed, earthy, about Don Cosme blanco and, bearing in mind its very small price tag, this will be, in my opinion, a total crowd pleaser.
In the middle weight category of the reposados, there were major disappointments but, were I forced to chose one, I'd settle for Oredain Ollitas which I found apt and subtle on the palate but nothing to write home about.
In this category, for example, La Tarea Reposado of the San Juanito Escobedo area, showed some promise – initially - but the aroma and promise were followed, rather sadly, by disappointment on the palate.
Then, another tequila showed up, like an understudy, at the last minute in this category of the reposados and this one, in my opinion, stole the show in the group: El Tesoro (treasure) de Don Felipe; and we know what happens with treasures: they're normally kept under locks. So, I am very grateful that Mark decided to share it with us at the last minute, perhaps to make up for the earlier disappointments amongst the reposados.
Cue the añejos and extra añejos: well, that's a different story. Three out of the three that we tasted have my vote, but one of them, for a different reason.
Should I need to grill a lobster with garlic, parsley and lime, I would definitely marry the flavour with a good slosh of Pueblo Viejo. The slight sophistication of this añejo would propel that seafood queen that is the lobster into a new kingdom.
My second choice goes to Extra Añejo Campo Azul. This is a rather floral, sophisticated extra añejo; there are traces of cardamon, allspice and jasmine in it, a taste almost nocturnal. In my opinion this would be a hit amongst the ladies.
Then, for afters, I'd sit down and enjoy a glass of Fortaleza Los Abuelos, an añejo with the aroma of Granny Smith apples, blue cheese and tobacco. A total wonder.
Last but not least, it was an excellent and impeccable mezcal - Vida Del Maguey - that showed up to curtain-call the evening. There is something that I always find so very comforting in a mezcal; like the warm embrace of a log fire during a cold night.
As I say, a jolly good night indeed.
Having said all of the above and, should I be ‘technically’ picky, in my opinion, we had the wrong choice of glassware to taste the tequilas.
Not that I would expect that scientific wonder that is ‘la copa Riedel’ when it comes to tequila tasting, but the rather thick and opaque glass of choice for the tasting, prevented me - almost blindfolded me - from satisfying one of my senses: sight.
I need/want to see my tequila, I find delight in it, as much as I like to smell and taste it. I enjoy seeing the golden colour of the nectar, or seeing ‘las piernas’ (legs) of good quality tequila running, slowly, down the side of the glass as you swirl the liquid inside it.
After all, you wouldn’t be able to judge haute couture under a rain coat.
Wahaca Soho (click on link to read Wahaca's blog post on the tasting)
80 Wardour Street
Soho
London
W1F OTF
T: +44 (0) 207 734 0195
Opening times
Mon-Sat: 12pm – 11pm
Sun: 12pm - 10.30pm
text © Jesús Montero
